Helvellyn sunrise – 20th Anniversary Edition!

Walked on 12/01/2024

Wythburn – Helvellyn – Nethermost Pike – High Crag – Dollywaggon Pike – Wythburn

Distance: 6.5 miles Total Ascent: 880 metres Time Taken: 4 hours Start Time: 06:55

Firstly, today is a celebration as it is 20 years today that the first walk was published on this website – 20 years! The first walks were actually in 2003 when I started recording summits on camera to keep a record of Wainwrights I had walked, as previously they were walked randomly and without any record. In January 2004 I got my act together, got a suitable domain name and published a few walks on 12th January 2004 (mainly looked at by me, it has to be said).The memory card on that camera could hold 6 photos hence the reason why there are so few photos on the early walk plus of course they took hours to upload via dial up!

Anyway, it has been a great journey, thanks for all the support over the years (including the lean years when the rest of life got in the way of fell walking) I have made some great friendships far and wide and I hope that plenty of you – the viewer – have too.

On with today’s walk – conditions appeared to look favourable for an inversion today but as you all know, you never can tell…

When I set off from Wythburn it was snowing. The snow got progressively worse as I climbed in the dark with a head torch on. I must admit, I did wonder whether it was worth carrying on as it didn't look very likely to get above the cloud today and perhaps I should turn back. Anyway, I persevered and plodded on...until suddenly the sky was lit up as in this photo!

A little bit further on and I knew it was going to be okay today...

...in fact more than okay.

The highest fells were indeed above the clouds - this is looking across to Bowfell and the Scafells, Great Gable on the right.

The path to Helvellyn, I think we have timed this right to get to the summit just before sunrise (08:30 sunrise time today).

First glimpse of dawn to the east.

Striding Edge.

Helvellyn sunrise.

I was surprised at how many people were up there today, I am more used to it being one man and his dog! Clearly everyone had heard how spectacular it was going to be today.

What a fantastic view to the north - this is my personal favourite of the day, I think the colours are fabulous. Can you spot the climber on Swirral Edge?

Catstycam.

Striding Edge sunrise.

There are 'wow' views every way.

Just stunning.

Striding Edge again.

Although it all looks frozen, it was surprisingly warm up here today and I ended up in shirt sleeves.

The sun has risen now, looking to the 'isle' of Blencathra

The Helvellyn ridge.

Helvellyn summit plateau and you can just make out Helvellyn's own Brocken Spectre in the distance. Two lads were sat at the trig column throughout the morning and never moved - call me old fashioned but I thought it was fell etiquette not to sit at the summit and to allow others their moment of topping out and to take photos etc - any thoughts?

Swirral Edge and Catstycam.

Some great morning colours today.

The shadow of Helvellyn and its Brocken Spectre.

Heading back along the summit plateau.

Great Gable to Pillar across the sea of cloud.

Bowfell and the Scafells.

Fletcher - a star!

The sun has fully risen now and it is a beautiful day.

You can just see someone on the highest point of Striding Edge.

Clouds below in Grisedale Valley.

What is he thinking?

Down below.

Heading for Nethermost Pike.

Helvellyn from the climb to Nethermost.

Nethermost Pike.

High Crag and Dollywaggon Pike next.

Frozen cairn.

High Crag.

Runners descending into the mist.

Dollywaggon Pike.

We had a coffee stop on Dollywaggon - I think we could have sat there all day it was so utterly beautiful.

Just one little biscuit?

A fog bow on the descent.

High Crag

Height: 744 metres / 2441 feet Grid reference: NY 18060 14017 Category: The Western Fells

High Crag is part of the High Stile ridge on the west side of Buttermere.

High Crag from Buttermere.

High Crag from the summit of Haystacks

The north-eastern fells beyond High Crag with Skiddaw in the distance – from Pillar.

Fleetwith Pike and Dale Head from High Crag.

A view through to Skiddaw and Blencathra from High Crag

High Stile from the summit of High Crag

Ennerdale Circuit

Walked on 28/06/2011

Start point: Bleach Green, Ennerdale (NY 085 153)

Bleach Green – Bowness – Great Borne – Starling Dodd – Little Dodd (Ennerdale) – Red Pike (Buttermere) – High Stile – High Crag – Memorial Bridge, Ennerdale – High Level Traverse – Shamrock Traverse – Pillar – Black Crag (Pillar) – Scoat Fell – Steeple – Haycock – Little Gowder Crag – Caw Fell – Ennerdale Fell – Crag Fell – Bleach Green

Distance: 18 miles Total Ascent: 2183 metres Time Taken: 10 hours Start Time: 06:00

Weather: Sunny and warm. 15°C

It’s a good while since I have done a full day walk and today seemed like a good opportunity to do a circuit of lovely Ennerdale. The weather was superb, a bit fresher than of late and the air was clearer for it. It was a great day out amongst my favourite fells and it was relatively quiet up there too, although it was good to chat to StridingEdge fans on Scoat Fell and then on Steeple.

Ennerdale circuit route map.

Early morning in Ennerdale.

Pillar silhouetted at the head of the Water.

Crag Fell.

Looking out from the shadows on the steep climb to Great Borne.

Suddenly, out of the shadows and into the sunlight and heading for the summit of Great Borne.

Gavel Fell from Great Borne.

Ennerdale. The outward leg of today's walk is to the left, the return is to the right.

The Loweswater fells - Gavel Fell, Hen Comb and Mellbreak.

Grasmoor across Crummock Water.

Any old iron? Starling Dodd summit.

Layers of fells.

Early morning shadow on Little Dodd.

Starling Dodd and Great Borne from the climb to Red Pike.

The summit of Red Pike.

A panoramic view from Red Pike, Loweswater and Crummock Water in view.

Casper and Dougal, hot already.

Bleaberry Tarn and beyond on the way to High Stile.

High Stile summit.

Ennerdale Water.

A great panoramic view from High Stile - Red Pike and Dodd to the left, Crummock Water and Grasmoor to the right.

A clear view across to the Scafells, Great Gable and Kirk Fell...and of course the mighty Pillar.

A panoramic across Ennerdale.

Robinson across Buttermere.

Pillar looks so tempting from here.

Grasmoor and the Coledale fells across Buttermere.

High Stile from the summit of High Crag.

A view through to Skiddaw and Blencathra from High Crag.

Instead of descending Gamlin End, I decided to go for a route 1 steeper than steep descent to Ennerdale direct (for masochists only this one, a real leg trembler!). I can see the Memorial Bridge from here (to the left of the tree line) where I want to cross and then the route of ascent is up and above the rocky knoll then to the right following the line of the beck before cutting diagonally left beneath Pillar Rock.

Dougal tries to stop himself sliding all the way down into Ennerdale.

You see yon precipice--it almost looks Like some vast building made of many crags, And in the midst is one particular rock That rises like a column from the vale, Whence by our Shepherds it is call'd, the Pillar. Extract from 'The Brothers', William Wordsworth 1800

Down at the Memorial Bridge.

Crossing the River Liza - Casper is easy to spot but can you see Dougal?

Time for lunch (even though it is only 10.30!) and a seat with a fantastic view of Pillar Rock towering above. Now all I have to do is climb up there. To be continued...after my lunch...

Looking back across to High Crag from the climb to Pillar. The route I used in descent is the diagonal scree run to the right.

Ennerdale and the fells just walked.

Into the lost valley. Pillar Rock naturally dominates the scene on this section of the walk.

Magnificent Pillar Rock.

Haystacks with Robinson's Cairn bottom right.

Rounding the base of it to join the High Level Traverse.

High Stile panoramic.

Phew, made it! Dougal gets an eye opener when he spots the Shamrock Traverse.

Pisgah and the east face of High Man. No Slab and Notch route for me today!

It all looks so reachable from the Shamrock Traverse but there is a climb needed from any angle.

Climbing higher with a view over Pillar Rock to High Stile and High Crag and the fells beyond.

The summit of Pillar.

Ennerdale from Pillar.

Time for a second lunch stop on Pillar with a view to Great Gable, the Scafells and Wasdale Head.

Looking back to Pillar from Black Crag.

The east face of Steeple from Black Crag.

Red Pike - the Wasdale one.

Scoat Fell summit and a couple of StridingEdge fans ahead.

Pillar from Scoat Fell.

The route to airy Steeple and Dougal and Casper have spotted yet another StridingEdge fan to greet us.

Pillar and Great Gable from Steeple.

Ennerdale Water.

Looking back on the descent of Scoat Fell - it looks like there is a party on Steeple to the left now.

Heading for Haycock.

Steeple and Scoat Fell from the summit of Haycock.

Dougal checks out the route over Little Gowder Crag to Caw Fell.

Caw Fell.

Haycock from Caw Fell where we met some Beardie fans!

The descent of Caw Fell following the wall to Iron Crag on Ennerdale Fell.

The summit of Ennerdale Fell - Pillar, Steeple, Scoat Fell and Haycock in view.

The long walk in following the Ennerdale Fence.

Crag Fell.

An Ennerdale panoramic from Crag Fell.

The field back to the car park was full of cows so I didn't fancy crossing that with the two cow magnets in tow, so was forced to take a detour back down to the lake and passed this summer meadow on the way.

High Stile

Walked on 04/10/2010

Start point: Buttermere (NY 176 170)

Buttermere – Bleaberry Tarn – The Saddle – Red Pike (Buttermere) – High Stile – High Crag – Gamlin End – Scarth Gap – Burtness Wood – Buttermere

Distance: 6.8 miles Total Ascent: 867 metres Time Taken: 4 hours Start Time: 07:10

Weather: Rain, cloudy. 14C

It is ages since I have been to Buttermere so I got up at the crack of dawn to get an early start to a predicted nice day. However, that failed to materialise although it did look as though it could brighten up but once I was up on the ridge it worsened and it ended up raining heavily.

High Stile route map.

Out of the trees above Burtness Wood, looking across Buttermere to Robinson and Hindscarth.

Early morning in Buttermere with Grasmoor beyond.

A panoramic view of Buttermere.

Fleetwith Pike.

Robinson and Hindscarth from higher up.

A lovely tribute from some great friends laid on a cairn on the climb to Red Pike.

Crummock Water.

Sourmilk Gill - I've never seen Dougal stay so still!

...and looking the other way.

Chapel Crags across Bleaberry Tarn.

Bleaberry Tarn.

Dale Head and Bleaberry Tarn.

Mellbreak between Loweswater and Crummock Water.

The north western fells from The Saddle.

Made it, but we are in the clouds on Red Pike. From here on it was persistent clouds and rain - often very heavy rain.

Dougal leads the way to High Crag ahead from Comb Crags.

A quick break in the clouds gives a view across to Dale Head whilst Casper seems to have lost his head!

(Just about) a view into Ennerdale from High Crag.

Haystacks and Seat from the descent of Gamlin End. Time to throw the towel in here and escape via Scarth Gap as it's absolutely chucking it down.

Fleetwith Pike across Warnscale Bottom.

Haystacks.

A panoramic view of Warnscale.

The Wainwright memorial plaque in St James' Church, Buttermere.

The Shepherd's Gate at the entrance to the church.

High Stile

Walked on 31/03/2008

Start point: Gatesgarth (NY 195 150)

Gatesgarth Farm, Buttermere – Fleetwith Pike – Haystacks – Seat – High Crag (Buttermere) – Grey Crag on High Stile – High Stile – Red Pike (Buttermere) – Gatesgarth Farm, Buttermere

Distance: 8.2 miles Total Ascent: 1260 metres Time Taken: 4 hours 45 minutes

Weather: Warm, long sunny spells. 14ºC.

It was very still this morning and all the Lakes looked immaculate as I passed through on my way to Buttermere. Buttermere itself was absolutely stunning with the most perfect reflections imaginable so I couldn’t resist to stop and take a few photos. The weather for the walk was reasonably clear for most of it with the clouds coming in at the end making it feel a lot colder. It was great to see many families out on Haystacks, I have never seen it so busy as today.

It was beautiful and calm in Buttermere this morning and there were stunning reflections in the lake. This is High Crag and High Stile.

Haystacks and the Buttermere pines.

High Crag.

High Stile, Red Pike and Dodd.

High Crag and High Stile from further along the banks of Buttermere.

High Crag - perfectly calm reflections.

Buttermere.

High Crag, High Stile and Dodd from the start of the climb to Fleetwith Pike.

Mellbreak and Crummock Water beyond Buttermere.

There are still some stubborn patches of snow on the High Stile ridge.

Hindscarth and Robinson across Honister.

Buttermere from the summit of Fleetwith Pike.

The High Stile ridge.

Casper on Fleetwith Pike.

The north-western fells.

Pillar across Ennerdale beyond Haystacks.

Green Gable and Great Gable to the south.

High Crag across the bothy.

A peek into Buttermere from Blackbeck Tarn.

The view from the climb to Haystacks.

Pillar across Innominate Tarn.

It was busy on the summit of Haystacks today.

Pillar from Haystacks.

The south-westerly view.

High Crag and Buttermere.

Pillar and the summit tarn on Haystacks.

Descending before the climb to Seat and High Crag.

Haystacks across Scarth Gap from the climb to Seat.

Casper has spotted something down there.

High Crag from the summit of Seat.

Ennerdale and Ennerdale Water.

It's a steep, steep climb up Gamlin End from here.

Haystacks and Seat from Gamlin End.

It was starting to cloud over now and began to get cold on the top of High Crag, here looking to High Stile.

The summit of High Crag. To the right the snow sprinkled Gables and Scafells are out of cloud now.

Robinson, Hindscarth and Dale Head from High Crag.

The weather has completely gone looking over to Red Pike and Dodd beyond Bleaberry Tarn with Crummock Water and Mellbreak beyond. There is a glimmer of sunshine on the Loweswater fells to the north.

On the summit of Red Pike, the clouds started rolling across from the west. Brrr, they were cold ones - lets get down!

Waterfalls on Comb Beck.

Sunlight once more on Comb Beck looking to a dull Fleetwith Pike.

Fleetwith Pike from Buttermere lakeshore path.

Buttermere from Peggy's Bridge.

Haystacks from Buttermere.

High Stile

Walked on 07/06/2006

Start point: Gatesgarth (NY 195 150)

Gatesgarth Farm, Buttermere – Fleetwith Pike – Haystacks – Seat (475) – High Crag (Buttermere) –Grey Crag on High Stile (476) – High Stile – Red Pike (Buttermere) – Dodd (Buttermere) (477) – Gatesgarth Farm, Buttermere

Distance: 11 miles Total Ascent: 1400 metres Time Taken: 5 hours

Weather: Sunny and warm. 24oC.

It was an absolutely beautiful day today, perfect walking weather. The sun was shining, the skies were blue and there was just enough breeze on the tops to keep cool. This is a lovely round of Buttermere and even better on a day like today due to the great, summery views. If I’d had enough time, it would have been nice to have a little snooze by Innominate Tarn in the warm sunshine…but never mind, perhaps next time.

High Crag, High Stile and Dodd from Gatesgarth.

Looking over Gatesgarth Farm into Buttermere and Mellbreak in the distance.

The same view from further up the ascent of Fleetwith Pike.

Climbing Fleetwith Pike.

It's hot today! Casper has a rest on the steep climb, Haystacks and Pillar behind.

Angus and Casper on the summit of Fleetwith Pike.

Pillar beyond Haystacks with High Crag and High Stile to the right.

The view from the summit of Fleetwith Pike.

...and a closer shot.

High Crag from Black Beck.

Innominate Tarn - the tarn with no name - looking over to Pillar. Can you spot Angus having a swim?

Green Gable, Great Gable and Kirk Fell from the tarn on the way to the summit of Haystacks.

...and from further up, Innominate Tarn left and the tarn in the previous photo, right.

High Crag from the summit of Haystacks.

Great Gable from Haystacks.

Ennerdale Water.

Pillar across Ennerdale.

High Crag from Seat. The steep zigzag path is the way up (gulp!).

Looking back on the round just walked from High Crag. Select on the image for a large version.

Angus and Casper rest on the top of High Crag.

High Stile ahead, Casper.

The aptly named Red Pike and Dodd above Bleaberry Tarn - taken from Grey Crag.

...and looking the other way to High Stile from Red Pike.

Dodd in the foreground from Red Pike, the north western fells beyond.

Red Pike from Dodd.

Robinson, Dale Head and Fleetwith Pike from the superb high level path above Buttermere.

Robinson and High Snockrigg.

Fleetwith Pike.

Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks along Warnscale Bottom.

Ennerdale Circuit

Walked on 09/05/2005

Start point: Bleach Green, Ennerdale (NY 085 153)

Bleach Green – Bowness – Brown How (Ennerdale) – Herdus – Great Borne – Gale Fell – Starling Dodd – Little Dodd (Ennerdale) – Red Pike (Buttermere) (357) – High Stile (358) – High Crag (359) – Haystacks (360) – Looking Stead – High Level Traverse – Shamrock Traverse – Pillar – Black Crag (Pillar) – Scoat Fell – Steeple – Haycock – Little Gowder Crag – Caw Fell – Ennerdale Fell – Crag Fell – Bleach Green

Distance: 23.6 miles Total Ascent: 2864 metres Time Taken: 10 hour 20 minutes

Weather: Mainly sunny with lots of snow (!) showers. 7-11°C, valley level – much colder on the tops.

Today’s walk is a long, high level circuit of the beautiful Ennerdale Valley with virtually the whole route being completed at an elevation in excess of 500m. I have had this one on my list of ‘to do’ walks for a while so it was satisfying to complete the walk on a mainly clear day. The photo’s here actually belie the conditions somewhat as the clouds came in when I was crossing from Haystacks to Pillar and there was an icy blizzard. The snow showers continued to come and go throughout the rest of the walk and conditions remained very cold.

Ennerdale Circuit route map.

An early morning silhouette of Ennerdale.

The sunlight on Crag Fell.

A good view from Red Pike of the round completed last Thursday.

Crummock Water from Red Pike.

High Snockrigg and Robinson over Buttermere with Bleaberry Tarn in the foreground.

Looking from High Stile across Bleaberry Tarn and Red Pike to Mellbreak and Crummock Water. Loweswater is visible in the distance.

The sun lights up Pillar Rock across Ennerdale on the north face of Pillar - from High Crag.

Fleetwith Pike and Dale Head from High Crag.

High Crag from Haystacks with Ennerdale to the left and the Buttermere Valley to the right.

Green Gable, Great Gable and Kirk Fell at the head of Ennerdale from Haystacks. The clouds were ominously creeping up behind me now and minutes later this view was obliterated by a blizzard.